This is the fifth entry in a series of posts featuring our Barcelona Honeymoon Adventure!
We woke up early to start our train trek to Girona and rode the metro to Barcelona Sants railway station. We spoke with at least three different miserable employees who didn’t seem to care very much about helping us. We lucked into finding our train despite the lack of assistance we had been given with our mildly confusing train tickets.
Our train was similar to those of Via Rail (Canadian) except that this train traveled a lot faster. Spain has a high-speed rail line, Alta Velocidad Española (AVE), which is run by RENFE – it made what was once an hour and a half train ride into merely 38 minutes. On the way to Girona, our train was shiny and new, but very hot inside. We took pictures of the train for our friend Ian who loves them.
Girona’s train station was gorgeous and obviously renovated within the last ten years. It was a lot less busy than the Barcelona station and the staff were much friendlier. Chris and I didn’t know where we were going, nor did we have a map of the city, but we assumed that the station must be moderately central and it turned out that the city had very helpful directional signs.
We walked into the city-centre and came across a set of old outdoor steps. We climbed them, and walked a few kilometers along what are known as “The Walls of Girona.” This upper path revealed a view of endless beauty in surreal cityscapes, but the walk itself looked as if it would never end. Chris and I went back down a set of stairs after some time and were still unable to see where it trailed off.
My post-walk online research indicated that the history of the walls varies between websites. One site curator claimed that the walls were built “between the 11th and 15th century,” while another claimed that they were an “extension of the Roman walls during the medieval ages” and that they are remain as some “of the longest Carolingian walls in Europe (9th century).”
The picturesque rooftops with mountainous backdrops were incredible – I highly recommend pushing yourself to walk along the walls so that you can see the combination of old and new architecture that exists in breathtaking Girona.
The centre of town contained many community squares and a multitude of expensive boutiques, but we excitedly happened upon a small vintage store amidst a collection of tourist shops. This unique establishment sold vintage books, antique knick knacks, and hilariously irrelevant postcards from the 1950s to today. The shop was called Portal Del Colleccionista and was run by a woman and her toddler – perfect store-keeps for the charming boutique.
For lunch, we searched for a supermarket and bought water, prosciutto, swiss cheese, a peach, and an apple. It was just right for us! We ate under a tree in a nearby square next to a statue of books. We then wandered the city streets and crossed many of Girona’s bridges, but the most beautiful and most famous bridge that we crossed was the Eifel Bridge, built by the Gustave Eifel before he built the Eifel Tower!
Our day trip to Girona was a success and definitely worth the visit, but it was exhausting – some of the most walking we’d done on the trip so far. We headed back to Barcelona earlier than planned, wrote our postcards at the Girona train station while we waited for our train, and tried not to fall asleep as we zipped back across the country by train to the big city.
The intimidating stairwell to our apartment seemed even more challenging after Girona. Chris labeled the daily activity of climbing four flights of stairs as our “Thigh Thruster, Butt Buster, Calf Crusher.” We then drank some wine and listened to music in our apartment.
Spain’s time difference compared to Canada’s forced us to choose between enjoying our cultural environment or waking up in the middle of the night to watch the CBC live coverage of The Tragically Hip concert in Kingston, Ontario. We joked about how horrible it was that we were on our ‘stupid’ honeymoon in ‘stupid’ Spain instead of at home watching the Hip – heavy on the sarcasm here as we were completely aware of how lucky we were and found out Chris’ parents had PVR’d the concert on their TV so that we could watch it at a later date.
We went out for dinner to a Gluten Free Pizza place that we had read about called Messie Sin Gluten. Pizza is my favourite food and the restaurant did not disappoint! They had 26 kinds of gluten free beer for Chris and every pizza was gluten free so cross contamination wasn’t an issue. If you don’t suffer from Celiac disease, Messie also has another location that uses regular dough.
We were having a lovely time and were ready for an impromptu adventure. The street festival extended to Messie’s neighbourhood and we wanted to see the festival nightlife in action. While Chris and I wandered around the Gracia area we found a feminist street festival that also housed vendors of the revolutionary cause to liberate Catalonia from Spain. Fittingly (activism-wise) a Spanish punk band was sound checking on the stage which struck our curiosity.
Fun fact about my Christopher: he is a pilot who is an excellent photographer, drummer, and he loves punk music. He proposed to me in his favourite Clash t-shirt that has holes in both armpits (I’m trying to convince him to let me make it into a pillow).
The band didn’t start the actual show for another half hour so we wandered through an awesome space street and also found a craft beer shop called The Beer-Ket! We drank bourbon and danced to Los Tronchos with a crowd of friendly Spanish punks.
On our way to the metro, we glided along in marital/bourbon bliss and met a wonderful New Zealander to whom we gushed about our admiration of his country – telling him it is at the top of our travel list. He laughed at us for being so in love with his home country as he was always getting away from it in his travels.
Before going into the apartment we went into one last bar near our place called Nevermind. It was a 90s grunge themed bar, yet they tended to play a wider range of 90s music than that. We each had a drink, enjoyed each other’s company, the music videos, the graffitied/stickered walls, and then went back home to bed.
This was our party night, we are not very wild partiers, but we had a great time!
Chris took a lot of really great photos in Girona, here are more of them: